Kanta to the World: Whose waste is this?

Fashion's Footprint

The textile industry is a major contributor to climate change, accounting for up to 10% of global carbon emissions and generating massive amounts of waste. In the EU alone, 5.2 million tonnes of garment and footwear waste are produced each year. Shockingly, about 92 million tonnes of textile waste are sent to landfills globally, equivalent to one garbage truck of waste every second. It is estimated that we already have enough clothing to outfit the next six generations, yet the fashion industry continues to harm the environment, making new production inherently unsustainable. The quality of garments has declined, with many items worn just 10 times before being discarded. While the industry thrives, those responsible for the pollution often escape the worst consequences, dumping excess textiles in poorer countries like Ghana and KenyaTextiles from the Global North are often sorted for quality, with only the lowest-grade items shipped to the Global South, where they frequently end up in landfills or are incinerated, contributing to severe environmental damage.

Fashion's Backdoor

The Netherlands is a major exporter of used clothing, sending 248,000 tonnes abroad in 2022, primarily to countries like Poland and Pakistan, which serve as re-export hubs. Unfortunately, much of this clothing eventually ends up in "reuse hubs" in Africa, where waste management systems are overwhelmed. Recent European regulations aim to promote sustainable practices, but they often overlook the realities faced by communities in the Global South, who bear the consequences of excessive consumption from the Global North. For instance, Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana, is the largest second-hand clothing market in West Africa, receiving over 15 million garments each week. Of these, approximately 40% becomes waste within a month, ending up in Accra's overflowing landfills, where it leaches into the environment and the ocean—an effect of waste colonialism by the Global North. Moreover, the rise of fast fashion brands like Shein threatens these second-hand markets by reducing demand for used clothing. As we confront this challenge, the pressing question remains: how can we transition the fashion industry toward a regenerative model, or are we already too late?

Kantamanto market, one of the worlds largest second-hand markets, an incredible circular ecosystem.

However, there is hope—hope in the form of an extraordinary circular ecosystem that repurposes millions of garments each week. At Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana, thousands of workers manage the constant influx of textiles. This vibrant market not only provides affordable clothing but also creates jobs for over 30,000 people, making second-hand clothing an essential part of daily life, even in the absence of discussions about sustainability. This project aims to showcase Kantamanto's remarkable ecosystem and support its growth as a circular fashion hub. By collaborating with partners in business acceleration, waste management, and circular fashion, we seek to celebrate the resilient and creative community of Kantamanto. Our goal is to demonstrate how fashion can be approached in a more planet-centric way. We have worked with a group of upcyclers based in Kantamanto to showcase a collection of garments that exemplify resilience, creativity, and embodied circularity. These designers not only use Kantamanto as their material library but also consider it their fashion school. Join us at Manifestations and immerse yourself in the vibrant world of Kantamanto. Akwaaba!